18th century giardinetto

A Portuguese giardinetto brooch, circa 1780. A giardinetto was a jewel in the form of a vase of flowers or a flower basket. These colourful floral gemstone depictions were love tokens exchanged between lovers and friends. Such giardinettos were largely based on the designs of Pouget Fils who published his landmark work, Treatise on Precious Stones and the Manner of Employing Them in Adornment, in Paris in 1763. Pouget’s designs captured the shifting aesthetic of the 18th century, transitioning from stiff baroque frameworks to more organic Rococo designs. As highlighted by Diana Scarisbrick, his designs were characterised by such elements as gem encrusted blossoms intricately arranged inside tiny, stylised baskets and loose floral stems and sprays tied with ribbons. Paris set the standard for high fashion across Europe in the 18th century and the Portuguese elite eagerly adopted French styles.
This giardinetto is silver and set with a harlequin array of gems – chrysoberyl, colourless topaz, imperial topaz and garnets. It measures 1 and 1/3 inches by 1 and 1/4 inches and is very fine quality and immaculate. Such a pretty little thing.

£3750
Item ref : ND1

Pouget’s floral designs, 1763, below