The apogee of 18th century Portuguese jewellery

In 2017 S.J. Phillips held an exhibition of Portuguese jewels in Lisbon. The magnificent jewels on display came from Phillips’ own stock and from private collections. This sumptuous and opulent chrysoberyl piece, circa 1780,  from a private collection, was in that exhibition. It is illustrated on page 75 of the exhibition catalogue, The S. J. Phillips’ Collection of Jewels of Portugal, by Diana Scarisbrick.
The second half of the 18th century saw a prodigious influx of new gemstones to Portugal from its colony, Brazil, which led to a festival of colour in jewellery. Richly coloured gems such as topaz and chrysoberyl worked their magic, inspiring  distinctive and exuberant national jewellery of immense richness and charm. This pendant has articulated and fluid chrysoberyl tassels cascading from a large chrysoberyl jessamine flower. All chrysoberyl have been close-set in silver, the gems foiled to catch and reflect light. There are 55 to 60 carats of chrysoberyl in total. The pendant is 4.5 inches long and 1 and 3/4 of an inch wide across the jessamine. It is in its original tooled leather case and accompanied by the catalogue from the 2017 Lisbon exhibition. That publication is no longer available. It is also illustrated in a new publication by Bennett and Mascetti, The Age of Grandeur. The apogee of late 18th century Portuguese jewellery.

sold
Item ref : 1925

The pendant illustrated in the exhibition catalogue [below]